If you’ve ever looked at your sensible home and thought, “What this place needs is Roman pillars, 58 bedrooms, and a private zoo,” then Hearst Castle was built for you. Nestled on the rolling hills of San Simeon like a celebrity hiding from the press, this historical mansion is the architectural lovechild of publishing tycoon William Randolph Hearst and architect Julia Morgan. Alone on its beautiful perch, it screams to the world, “I have more money than I know what to do with.”
Hearst Castle was built five miles past nowhere, just off California’s iconic Highway 1. The road to San Simeon winds along cliffs, through clouds, and over the collective dreams of writers like me. Beautiful and dramatic, it feels like a ride through a car commercial, minus the sleek SUV and perfect hair.
Other than cows, elephant seals, and a few zebras, there is nothing for miles along the coastline. That’s because the Hearst Corporation still runs a major cattle ranch there.
Once arriving at the interpretive center, a shuttle bus was waiting to carry us to the top of “The Enchanted Hill,” which is not metaphorical but literally enchanted. The views? Ocean on one side, hills on the other, and Aoudad occasionally photobombing like they own the place (because they kind of do). We were lucky enough to see a family of three sunning themselves on the hillside.
As soon as the bus dropped us off, we were immediately smacked in the face with opulence. Imagine if a European cathedral had a baby with a Hollywood film set, and then that baby inherited a billion-dollar trust fund and developed a taste for marble, gold, and indoor fountains. That’s the vibe.
The castle was designed by Julia Morgan, one of the first successful female architects in California. She and Mr. Hearst dreamed big for over 28 years, creating the castle on a hilltop where his family often camped in tents.
A Mediterranean village, a Moorish palace, and an art museum are all found in the same building. Each room is more exquisite than the last, with a dining hall that looks like the one at Hogwarts. The movie theater is a private screening room with a popcorn machine older than Grammie. The library contains more first editions than the US Library of Congress, while smelling like ancient wisdom and expensive wood polish.
If guests overstayed their welcome, Hearst would simply stop serving them alcohol. Bachelors stayed in one guest house, while single ladies were closely watched in the main house. Mr. Hearst was the only person who could cohabitate with his girlfriend, but then, he got to make all the rules.
Having visited before, HHH and I chose the Upstairs Suites Tour which was a 70-minute guided experience that delved into the upper levels of Casa Grande, Hearst Castle’s main residence. We climbed approximately 367 steps to discover Doge’s Suite, the Gothic Suite, and Duplex bedrooms.
Walking through the massive castle, my mind wandered back to days of black and white movies and glimpses of the one and only Marion Davies……
My favorite rooms of the castle were the matching Celestial Suites, located in the bell towers. These two rooms offer panoramic ocean views while being illuminated by natural light filtered through the structural arches.
No Hearst Castle visit is complete without a visit to the amazing the pools. The Neptune Pool is surrounded by ancient columns imported from Europe. The Roman Pool, an indoor stunner covered in glass tiles and gold leaf, looks like someone tried to bedazzle the Sistine Chapel and accidentally invented perfection.
You can’t swim in them, but you will join others in spending a solid 10 minutes figuring out how to make one your phone wallpaper.
If all that wasn’t enough, the gardens were amazing. Oranges and lemons grown there are donated to the local food bank. Under the clouds and the sea, the roses flourish. Truly a gardener’s delight.
So whether you’re a history buff, architecture nerd, or just really into Aoudad’s and an occasional wild zebra, Hearst Castle is a must-see. Just remember: pack your sense of wonder and maybe a monocle, for the vibes.
